Let me let you in on a little secret before we start: the magic of Sossusvlei isn’t just what you see. It’s when you get there. And the trick to getting there first, before the crowds arrive and before the heat turns the sand into a frying pan, is staying right at the gate.
More on that in a moment.
Arrival: The Lodge That Kisses the Dunes
I visited Sossusvlei Lodge, and let me be honest with you, it was boiling. It felt like 40 degrees, and I’m fairly sure it actually was. The lodge sits so close to the red dunes that it practically kisses them, and the sand got so hot I had to wear closed shoes just to cross it without doing a Little hopping dance. So you can imagine how grateful I was to discover the pool. That beautiful, refreshing, life-saving pool where I ended up spending most of my afternoon.
No regrets.
Why You Should Stay Right at the Gate
Here’s the secret I promised: Sossusvlei Lodge is the perfect base for entering the Namib-Naukluft National Park early in the morning. And by early, I mean sunrise. I was at the entrance gate as the sun came up, and then we drove alongside the dunes, each curve lit more beautifully than the last by that soft early light. It honestly felt like another world.
That early start makes all the difference, both for the incredible light and for staying ahead of the heat.
Reaching Deadvlei
We drove on until we reached Deadvlei. After a 20-minute walk over the dunes, the view opened up, and it was spectacular.
Close to Sossusvlei, Deadvlei is a clay pan known for its dark, dead camel thorn trees standing against the white pan floor. The pan formed when the Tsauchab River flooded the area, allowing camel thorn trees to grow.
Then the climate shifted, the sand dunes gradually crept in, and they blocked the river from ever reaching the pan again. The trees are estimated to be several hundred years old. You’ll often see figures of around 900 years quoted, although the exact age is still debated. What’s remarkable is that they haven’t decomposed; the climate is simply too dry for them to rot away.
For photographers, Deadvlei is paradise. The contrast between the pitch-black trees and the bleached-white pan, set against the rusty-red dunes and a deep blue sky, makes for unforgettable images.
A practical tip: Deadvlei is at least a 1 km walk from the parking area, so be sure to take drinking water with you. We did.
And then we took so many pictures of the trees, wandering between those ancient trunks as though we’d stepped back in time.
(I’ll admit it, I kept half expecting a dinosaur to wander past. No luck, but I’m still convinced one was hiding behind a dune somewhere.)
Back to the Pool (and a Jealous Visitor)
Because it was so hot, we could only stay out until late morning. The afternoon called for one thing: the pool. We spent it in and around the water, cold drink in hand, and we even had an oryx come to visit. I’m certain he was a little jealous that we could cool off so easily. Sorry, my friend.
The Bottom Line
If you want to visit Deadvlei or hike Big Daddy, one of the tallest dunes in the Namib, make sure you stay at Sossusvlei Lodge. Stay at the gate, get up before the sun, take plenty of water, and bring a sense of humour for the heat. Between the friendly staff, the great food, and that wonderfully refreshing pool, you’ll enjoy a stay you won’t soon forget.
And if you happen to spot a dinosaur out in Deadvlei… tell it I said hi.
Until next time,
Sandra
